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Used cars

For starters, don't rush into a decision.

Shop around. There are plenty of places to buy - car yards, auction sites like AA Carfair or through a private sale.

No matter how you choose to buy, it's crucial to do your homework and check the history and market value of the car so you don't end up with a lemon.

Buying a car

From a second-hand car yard

Do you have a car to sell before buying another? If so, arranging a trade-in with a reputable car dealer may be the easiest option. Things to note:

You may pay a little more when buying from a motor dealer
Second-hand cars purchased from a dealer come with a guarantee
An AA Pre Purchase inspection should still be done. Information you get from this report may help you negotiate the purchase price

From a private seller

Here's where to look for second-hand cars:

Websites such as AA Carfair, TradeMe, NZ Herald and Autotrader
Local papers and major metropolitan newspapers
Locally held car fairs / park and sell yards

When buying privately, you should pay less than you would from a car dealer. Remember:

There is no warranty or comeback on a private sale
Get an AA Pre Purchase inspection completed before you complete the sale, so you know what you're buying
Never buy a vehicle without a Warrant of Fitness that is less than one month old
It's the purchaser's responsibility to organise change of ownership details and pay the fee

From an auction

The advantage of buying at auction is in the price. Cars bought at auction can often be cheaper than from car traders. But these cars don't come with guarantees. Here are a few pointers to get you through the auction process:

If you have not been to a vehicle auction before, attend one to experience the bidding process
Attend a viewing day prior to the auction to look over vehicles
If you think a car has potential, get an AA Pre Purchase inspection done
When bidding, know and stick to your maximum buying price
Don't pay more than you would for the same model at a dealer's yard

From a car fairs or park & sell yard

Most of these cars will be sold by owners or private sellers. Follow the same procedures as if you were buying a vehicle privately. Things to consider:

Get an AA Pre Purchase Vehicle Inspection. These are usually available on-site at car fairs. If you think a car has potential, have it independently inspected
Fair and yard operators must be registered as motor vehicle traders if they are selling more than six vehicles per year, and must comply with regulations
If you have problems with the vehicle you have bought, you may have legal recourse
If you are dealing directly with the seller of the vehicle and the fair or yard operator is not involved in the sale, you may not have legal protection

Check out the vehicle's history

Regardless of where you buy a used car from we recommend you check out the history before you buy. You'll save yourself time and money - and make the car buying experience stress free. Most of the information mentioned here is available in an AA Vehicle History report.

Is there finance owing?
Many people finance a vehicle purchase through a loan. As a buyer, you need to be sure there is absolutely no money owning on the car before you hand over your money.
Has the vehicle been reported stolen?
Check the vehicle for police alerts or cautions before you buy.
How many kilometres has the car travelled?
Knowing the distance the vehicle has travelled is a good indicator of its likely condition, especially if you can see the mileage travelled over six monthly periods.
How many owners?
Has the vehicle been owned by one careful lady driver or several not so careful people?
What's the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)?
Like the serial number on a TV or microwave, the VIN will be stamped on the vehicle in the engine area. The VIN is a better form of identification than a number plate which can change. Knowing and checking the VIN allows you to check whether the actual car is the same vehicle mentioned on documents like WoF certificates and registration documents.
Registration date?
This will tell you when the registration fee is due.
Warrant of Fitness date?
Unless you agree, the seller must have a current (within the last month) WoF on the vehicle showing whether it has recently passed its roadworthy test.
Imported or NZ new?
There are lots and lots of perfectly good imported secondhand cars. There are also lots that aren't as good. Equally there are good and bad NZ new cars. You may just be more comfortable knowing whether it's imported or not.
Has the vehicle been de-registered?
This will tell you if the vehicle has been written off, repaired and then re-registered.
Cambelt or not?
Does the vehicle have a cambelt (not all vehicles do)? Cambelts need regular replacement (approximately every 100,000kms or five years, depending on manufacturer). Failure to maintain or replace the cam belt can result in very expensive engine damage. To replace a cambelt may be costly however; to fix the damage arising from a failed cambelt can cost thousands of dollars. If the vehicle has a cambelt, ask the seller when it was last replaced and factor this into your thinking. Ask to see the invoice for any work done.
Is the person selling the car the registered owner?
It may sound silly, but it's an important point. You don't want to hand over money to the wrong person. Check whether the person offering the car for sale is actually the legal owner.
Approximate vehicle value?
What should the car be worth? Just because you like the car doesn't mean you should pay more than fair value. The best way to find out the approximate value is to compare prices for similar cars or similar age. You can do this with an AA Vehicle Valuation report.
Honest answers to honest questions?
You need to rely in part on your assessment of the seller's honesty. Ask the seller all of the above questions; then check that the answers match up with your research and reports. Do you get straightforward answers to your questions? If not, walk away. There are plenty of other cars around to buy.