Bay of Islands

The angle provided an excellent view of Waitangi and its bright green front lawn – and opposite, with its back to the hills, lay Russell. Boats and waves and seabirds dotted the scene below me and, at the end of a string reaching up to me, the parasailing crew on whom I was depending.

We’d left from Paihia, zoomed out into the bay, then – strapped into a harness – I floated off the end of the boat and into the sky. Simple as that. And it was glorious.

We’d been to Waitangi earlier in the morning. I could see where we had walked up to the top meeting house, listening to tui trying to out-talk the guide, who shared the story of the Treaty and the significance of the meeting house’s carvings. To end the tour, she sang a waiata to us that rang out beautifully and out-sung the tui, hands-down.

I could see, from my seat in the sky, where we had stayed in Paihia – in a waterfront apartment with sun-catching balconies, space to spread out and a kitchen where most people would probably cook their own fish, but where we were treated to a visiting chef’s culinary skills. While he made sizzling noises and delicious smells, we four women had relaxed over wine and recovered from our day exploring Russell.

The little town shone now, the sun winking on windows and touching the shoulders of wandering tourists. As I looked down on them, I imagined them having a similar experience to mine – of poking around Russell’s historic streets and taking a guided town tour that included a quick drive up Flagstaff.

We had wandered along to Pompallier Mission House, an historic site heavy with story, where a French Catholic mission was established to commune with whalers and trading ship crew, watch as the frontier port overheated with tension and where, in the early 1840s, a Maori language printing press was set up.

The tourists would, as I had, appreciate the authenticity of the tannery and press experience, learning the original book binding methods and feeling connected to some vital ingredients of New Zealand history and culture.

As clear as the view was the realisation that visiting the Bay of Islands should be on every New Zealander’s travel itinerary for its historic and cultural revelations. While on the cultural tour, they would also want to call into Kawakawa, where Hundertwasser’s incredible arty toilets wait to remind us that culture is an evolving, enriching and multi-faceted wonder.

All this I contemplated while the wind quietly waved me back and forwards above the bay.