Initially, we couldn’t stop laughing. The contrast between what we’d been doing and where we’d ended up was extreme.
We’d boarded the TranzAlpine, been seated in the luxurious comfort of a Scenic Plus carriage, were being presented with cheese platters laden with delicious tidbits and being asked to choose wine.
The utterly professional and friendly stewards either didn’t notice or did a very good job of pretending not to notice our damp clothing, rumpled hair and soggy shoes. They had welcomed us on board at Moana and directed us to the rail equivalent of business class; we couldn’t wipe the grins off our faces.
We had been cycling on the West Coast for the last four days and planned to meet the train to take us back to Christchurch. On our last stretch the skies had opened up, letting several days of pent-up rain out in one generous flourish. We’d gotten pretty wet.
In classic Kiwi fashion, it didn’t matter. Some of the other passengers in Scenic Plus had dressed up a bit, making an occasion of this special journey, but others were casual – albeit not quite as casual as us. But we were made to feel welcome and quickly settled back to watch the rolling beauty out the window, keeping an ear on the running commentary, chatting with the stewards and indulging in the victuals.
When we boarded, the TranzAlpine was already an hour into its four-and-a-half hour journey across the South Island. Wide river valleys stretched away to soft-coloured hills that steepened and folded into a rugged, mysterious distance climbing away from the coast.
Soon, the train was climbing too and rounding deep-shadowed corners, edging up toward the mountains. We slid into the incredible Ōtira Tunnel – climbing eight-and-a-half kilometres in darkness; everyone still, hushed, waiting to emerge.
At Arthur’s Pass the train stopped for a while and we hopped off to feel the cool air. We were right in the thick of it here – in the midst of incredible, other-worldly beauty with mountains rising around us and the sky close. Trails lead away into valleys; the landscape seemed altered by the seasons.
Back on board, another drink? A New Zealand beer or another wine? Thank you, yes – and more food! Canapés of New Zealand: Marlborough salmon blini, lamb roast, tiny Kiwi bacon and egg pies. A delicious light meal of chicken on roasted vegetables.
Out the window the land revealed itself in another fashion, clearly heading east but still mountainous as we dove into short tunnels and crossed several viaducts with views of aqua-blue rivers winding in ribbons over broad stony river beds.
Down into Springfield, then across the plains, where rain streaked across the train windows. Rain fell in Christchurch, too – but nothing could spoil our high spirits.
