Hanmer Springs: a weekend escape

There’s something almost primal about the sensation of easing into a hot pool. First, the shock of the heat – burning against cold skin. Then, the gradual surrender. Muscles unknot, the mind quietens. Sinking slowly into the warmth, the sharp edges of the outside world soften and blur.

A weekend in Hanmer Springs unfolds much the same. Tucked in the foothills of the Southern Alps, the initial shock of beauty hits first, the sweeping alpine views, the lush greenery, the narrow gorges.  But soon, a gentle warmth takes over. You breathe in the crisp alpine air, walk the town’s quaint streets. The pace slows, tension eases. The world beyond floats away.

We start our journey in Christchurch, following the open road to Amberley. Here, we pause to peruse the gift shop – Ruby Six – admiring handmade knitwear and butter-soft leather wallets. I buy a pair of emerald gemstone earrings before we wander two doors down to Brew Moon, a taproom and brewery serving casual fare. Perched on barstools around the outdoor fire, we share a salad and fries while pondering the weekend ahead.

The sun is getting low as we continue our journey, painting the tussock grasses in pastel pinks and oranges. We pass sheep and cattle grazing on the flat plains before turning a corner and winding our way up and over the hills. It’s dark when we cross the Waiau Ferry Bridge. For many who come to Hanmer to holiday, this bridge is an important threshold. Behind, the worries and burdens of everyday life. Ahead, tranquillity, relaxation, peace. I’ve also heard the view is beautiful; I make a mental note to take it in on our way back.

The next morning, after a restful sleep at the Top 10 Holiday Park, we head for breakfast at Power House Café, an institution in Hanmer, before a quick zig-zag up Conical Hill for beautiful panoramic views of the village and heritage forest.

Then it’s time for the main event: a visit to the pools. Hanmer Springs has been drawing visitors to its healing thermal waters for generations, with the first bathhouse built 1883. We begin with 30 minutes of peaceful soaking in a private room, before making our way to the public pools.

In addition to the many pools heated to various temperatures, there’s plenty to keep families busy: a playground, a lazy river, a number of twisting waterslides. Kids at heart, we launch ourselves down a couple of slides with abandon, before plopping into one of the hotter sulphur pools for more unwinding. Surrounded by all this infrastructure, it’s hard to imagine the pools’ humble beginnings: a wooden bathhouse next to a steaming hole in the ground.

10 minutes down the road, we join eight other life-jacketed punters on a zoom up and down the Waiau Uwha River with Amuri Jet Adventures. Seeing the tranquil countryside via jet boat is a study in contrasts: we zoom furiously past the rolling meadows and grazing livestock, squealing under calm blue sky as we come precariously close to the rocky river bank.

It might seem counterintuitive to follow a day of relaxing with an adrenaline-pumping activity but heading back to our accommodation to freshen up we find that whatever cobwebs of stress were left post-pools have been blown away. Still, I can’t resist the opportunity for another soak – this time, in one of the private wood-fired hot tubs at Top 10. 

The following morning, before heading out of Hanmer, we made a mad dash through the A-Maze-N-Golf. It’s not a high-tech affair, but if you’re a lover of kitsch and gimmicky fun, especially with kids in tow, then it’s certainly a fun way to kill an hour.

Over the Waiau Ferry Bridge (beauty: confirmed) and on the road again, we pass several wineries before reaching Pegasus Bay. 

Hidden behind manicured hedges and wrought iron gates, the family-owned winery’s steepled building makes quite an impression. Through large wooden doors we find a roaring fireplace, dark wood, sweeping staircases and a chandelier made of wine bottles. After sampling wine in the tasting room, we take a platter of deli meats and cheeses outside to the expansive garden to savour the sunshine.

Then, we’re back on our way. Refreshed, relaxed and reenergised, it’s an easy ride over the rolling hills to home.