Ōkārito, a wonderful wetland wilderness

Waking early, we were keen to explore. Staying in May meant the village population was down to around just 30 people. It was quiet and still. We walked just a few minutes and came to the edge of what is the soul of this little community – the Ōkārito Lagoon. Over 3,000 hectares, this wetland wilderness is the largest unmodified coastal wetland in New Zealand. It is a rich feeding ground for a prolific array of birdlife including the rare and elegant kōtuku or white heron. We were hoping above all else to see one. With a population of only 100-120 in New Zealand, and with most leaving their breeding ground just north of Ōkārito over the winter months, we were not sure of our chances. Much to our amazement and delight one was wading through the tidal water stealthily seeking its prey, just metres from us. We were mesmerised.

The haunting beauty of the wetland edged by lush rainforest with the Kā Tiritiri o te Moana /Southern Alps imposing itself on the lagoon’s landscape enticed us. On two consecutive days we explored its reaches. Ōkārito Eco Boat Tours is run by Swade and Paula. Their flat-bottomed open-air boat, the Explorer Douglas, is the perfect way to gently cruising the lagoon and the narrow waterways. They know the wetland intimately, having lived here for years, and while we absorbed the scene, they shared their knowledge of the rich local history, ecology and current conservation efforts. The boat tour was a wonderful way to get a sense of the wetland, an opportunity to completely relax and absorb the unadulterated magic of this ancient place. 

The next day we headed back into the wetland in a double sea kayak. As a novice I was nervous but quickly got the hang of it and, fully kitted out, we were safe and comfortable. We got into a rhythm and enjoyed the solitude as we were the only ones out paddling.

It is difficult to express just how entrancing the wetland is, the vastness of the lagoon, the physical intensity of the inland waterways with towering stands of ancient kahikatea. The cloud lifted just enough for Aoraki and Mount Tasman to tease us with their presence. Being almost winter the plethora of migratory birds were no longer gorging themselves in the tidal waters but there was still birdlife including tarā nui/Caspian terns, takakau/shags, kōtare/kingfisher and of course, the kōtuku.

When not on the water we were either relaxing at The Tower or out walking. Information boards scattered around sites, like Donovan’s Store and the old boatshed, speak to the village’s gold-mining history and the tenacity of the European settlers who called this place home. The driftwood strewn beach with the Tasman Sea battering the shore was the perfect tonic for blowing out any lingering cobwebs and the steady climb up the trig exercised our legs after the upper body workout of kayaking. From the top, we were rewarded with wonderful vistas over the wetland. Hoping to see the rowi, Ōkārito’s own rare kiwi, we came down the hill on dark. Fortune did not favour us but the sound of ruru/morepork was reward enough.

For Māori, Ōkārito, named after the Māori rangatira/Chief Kārito, has always held great significance. The bountiful resources of the wetland meant it was an important mahinga kai or food gathering site and also a place of learning. Ngāi Tahu rangatira once travelled here to seek knowledge of whakapapa/genealogy of Te Wai Pounamu/South Island. After five days of rest and leisurely exploration it is easy to appreciate the esteem they held for this place. Ōkārito had woven its magic.