Noosa: beaches, food and fun

Just a few kilometres away, as the crow flies, is scenery more usually associated with Noosa: golden sand teased by steady swells, people in swimsuits on striped towels, families strolling the boardwalk.

I went straight to the main beach the day I arrived in Noosa. It was officially winter but was the temperature of a Kiwi mid-summer and I didn’t need convincing to dive in. The beach was loaded with happy people; families splashing, toddlers sand-digging, teens carrying surfboards to and from the water’s edge. 

On Hastings Street, behind the main beach, beachgoers queued barefoot for tacos, burgers and ice creams. This is also where many sophisticated bars and glamorous restaurants are. I sat at Season Restaurant with a view of the beach to enjoy a seafood-loaded curry. Another day, I enjoyed handmade pasta at super-buzzy Cibaria Noosa; another was spent happily nibbling from small dishes and sipping excellent wines at Bar Rosi, a discreet and stylish spot hiding opposite the visitor centre.

Even as the sun set the beach was busy, kids playing in the closing light, chasing each other across the cooling sand. Hastings Street switched on its festive fairy lights as families with wet towels and sandy sunhats assembled for the walk back to the car. Some of us stayed on to wander under the pretty, sparkly trees, window shopping, people watching, deciding on a bar or a restaurant. 

While this quarter may be the magnet, it’s not the only attraction here. Noosa is multifaceted, with multiple sandy beaches, lakes, lagoons, hinterland towns – each a completely different character, with its own charm.

My accommodation was equidistant from Hastings Street and Noosa Junction, a focus for daytime shopping and nighttime socialising. It buzzed with locals, bars overflowing into the warm night, casual and convivial. I made my way to Coya, a contemporary Peruvian restaurant. Friendly and cosy, it served divine, refined tastiness with flair.

A short drive from my base was Noosaville, with a lively village vibe. Sunny cafés line the street opposite the wide lagoon where boats – yachts, jet skis, kayaks, houseboats – can be hired. 

I joined WhaleSongs on a small tour boat looking for whales but only seeing dolphins. It was unusual not to see them, as they’re on the move at this time of year. I was told around 60,000 humpbacks were expected to pass by on their way to baby-appropriate feeding sites – which was heartening to hear, but also frustrating! I willed so hard! Regardless, it was worth being out at sea for views of Noosa National Park and to hear about the work done to record sightings and capture songs of whales. 

Sea air made me hungry. Landed, I lunched at nearby Lanai, known for its fresh, local produce with an indigenous twist – delicious, and beautifully presented on a sunny deck. I would go back just for the Mooloolaba prawn sanga – although if I did, I’d be hoping the little doughnuts with plum and custard were still on the menu…

While my time in Noosa wasn’t all about food, it was a highlight. Even my Allawah apartment came with treats – Forager boxes – one packed with cheese, olives, pates, pickles, dips to smear over chunks of bread and crackers – and another full of berries and fruit. I picked at these boxes over a few days, for a quick graze before leaving for the day. On my return I sat on the balcony as the day faded, Venus shining bright in a pink sky, eating berries and cheese. A large black bird flew across the view between the shining planet and the moon, like a line from a Nick Cave song.

I wanted to explore as much as I could of Noosa and its surrounds, so resisted the urge to relax into luxury apartment living. I could so easily have swanned about the airy, two-level, art-filled space – sunning on the balcony (one hand darting regularly to the Forager box), wandering down through the tropical gardens for a swim or a spa pool soak.

But I had places to be. First thing on Sunday morning it was Noosa Farmers Market, awash with bright, freshness – fruits, flowers, honey, jars of glistening goodness. Then I drove out to the hinterland, up to Boreen Point to the historic pub, to sit with coffee in the shade as a country singer on guitar played Johnny Cash and Neil Diamond.

Then to Kin Kin for a poke around an incredibly tempting homeware and gift shop, and the classic country market featuring preserves and plants, crystals and massages, crafts and surprise treasures.

Also within radius of Noosa: Eumundi, an historic little town famous for its huge Saturday market, with the ubiquitous omnipresent corner pub, a mighty book shop, boutiques, pottery and leather shops and homewares.

Pulled back to the coast by late afternoon, I ventured into Noosa National Park. With smooth, coastal tracks, the park is very popular with walkers and joggers. As the light turned rose gold, I walked beneath glowing, smooth-limbed gum trees rattling with noisy birds. 

People picnicked and posed for photos on the low tide sand, framing selfies with the sunset. Surfers hung offshore waiting in a lazy swell for something to ride. Watching for dolphins. They’re often there; I saw a pod from the hill above the bay.

Walking back to town, I slowed to appreciate palm trees silhouetted dark against the sunset in postcard cliché.

I could see the main beach still busy, still brimming with happy energy. Couples wandered, relaxed, or stood ankle deep in the shallows. Solo swimmers floating in the gentle waves, looking up into a sky fading into inky shades. They, too, were reluctant to leave.