A short escape to Vanuatu

Back on-board Major Tom, Sailing Vanuatu’s 60-foot yacht, I describe the encounter to skipper Ben, who identifies it as a venomous lionfish. No wonder it was so unbothered. 

Christchurch-born Ben launched Vanuatu’s only dedicated sailing day tour in 2024 along with his partner Emily and their silver Labrador Bowie, who holds the titles of Chief Safety Officer and Lunch Clean-up Manager. Excursions are run with help from a small team of local crew from communities on the surrounding Moso and Lelepa Islands.

We soak up distant views of islands – verdant smudges against an endless aqua expanse – and even a sunken plane wreck. Although it didn't crash here (locals relocated it from a nearby airport to aid coral regeneration on the reef), its submerged silhouette is a haunting sight.

Sated by a feast cooked on the onboard barbecue, we step onto the white sands of Lelepa Island. Our guide explains that while the village men are often out at sea on fishing expeditions, the shoreline belongs to the women. Wandering the water's edge with hands clasped behind their backs and gazes fixed intently on the ground, they scour the tideline for shells and other coastal finds to weave into their crafts.

A short dusty path through backyards where dogs and children play leads us to a display of these handicrafts: woven bags, baskets, hand-carved trinkets and delicate shell jewellery. I select a bowl to take home as local musicians fill the room with melodies.

Vanuatu thrives on a deep connection to land, sea, community and ‘kastom’, the traditional culture that is foundational to life here.

Bislama is the national language, with expressions like ‘Welkam’ and ‘Tankyu tumas’ reflecting gratitude. There are over 100 different dialects spoken across Vanuatu and echoes of French linger nearly 50 years post-independence, making it one of the most linguistically diverse countries in the world. Yet the spirit of the island remains uniquely and proudly Ni-Vanuatu. This sense of community played an integral role in the recovery and rebuilding following the 2024 earthquake that rattled the island’s capital, Port Vila.

Our day on the water draws to a close with more song, this time from the Singing Island Mamas, as well as a final, generous feast and a traditional kava ceremony.  

Deeply embedded in Vanuatu kastom, kava serves as a ritual for connection, celebration and storytelling. Often hosted in local bars marked by glowing roadside lanterns, these ceremonies are open invitations to community life.

I wake with the morning sun and wander from my room at the Grand Hotel & Casino to the dining room for breakfast. On a leisurely stroll along the harbour I find a local produce market coming to life, vibrant with tropical fruits and vegetables. Further on, the Mamas Market beckons, its colourful array of handicrafts too tempting to resist.

Though Club Hippique horse ranch is only a short drive from my Port Vila base, the surrounding deep jungle canopy marks it as a world apart. Any nerves about my novice riding skills disappear the moment I mount Dusty; he seems to doze off. 

We amble off with a gentle nudge, following our guide through the estate’s sun-dappled rainforest. This leisurely pace allows for an intimate view of the island, winding through local villages before we finally emerge onto the pristine expanse of Etmat Bay – a perfect, tranquil setting to bid farewell to both my trusty ride and this beautiful island.