A blissful break in Byron Bay

Curved fins appear in the ocean, sunlight catches pale underbellies and sea spray shoots from blowholes. And then they are gone.

While the sighting is over in seconds it is still overwhelming; I race along the most easterly point of Australia’s mainland desperate for another glimpse of them. Whales!

Thousands of humpbacks pass through the ocean next to the Cape Byron State Conservation Area during their migration between May and November. In the surrounding sandy coves and turquoise bays, pods of dolphins are also abundant.

My morning begins with sunrise yoga. Sitting on my mat, I gaze out at the Cape Byron Bay Lighthouse, a smudge of white atop the rocky point of Cape Byron. 

A native bird watches me move under the guidance of my instructor, who encourages me to focus on the rumble of the nearby waves whenever I notice my mind wandering. Even without the lull of the ocean, I can quieten my thoughts by slowing my breath, she says.

It seems most of the Byron Bay locals follow this advice.

People here seem to move with a sense of ease and happiness. They also noticeably respect nature and the environment.

On the veranda of Three Blue Ducks, a delightful café and store boasting zero food miles – all fresh produce here is harvested from the onsite garden and farm – I sip coffee and exchange a smile with the bakers kneading dough. A pig feeds her babies in a nearby pen and children scale climbing frames in the playground.     

Byron Bay township is a cornucopia of bohemian fare. Feathery dreamcatchers sway in shop doors; Buddha statues, crystals and gemstones glow in the sunshine. A colourful peace sign throws rainbows over a barista at a hole-in-the-wall-style coffee shop. At The Balcony Bar and Oyster Co., beautiful people with sun-kissed skin, deep smile lines and feathers in their hair wander barefoot. 

It’s tempting to soak up the sunshine poolside at my accommodation, Elements of Byron, but a walk along Wategos Beach is too enticing. At Folk café I take a seat beneath leafy tropical plants. Scented smoke from incense unfurls in the still air of the courtyard gardens. A waitress waters the vegetable patch, a dog snoozes while his mate rolls on the dusty earth. I graze on a delicious plant-based breakfast.

I find myself caught up in the action that unfolds on the first Sunday of every month. The light breeze carries happy chatter as shoppers purchase fresh juices, bread and honey at the Byron Bay Markets. Stalls with eye-catching and beautifully made clothing, ceramics and paintings draw me in.

Each stand sells goods created with great care, pride and lashings of love – the Byron Bay ethos.

A young girl busks and a toddler twitches as her face is painted with small daisies. A potter throws clay on a wheel, transforming a piece of earth into a crafted masterpiece before impressed onlookers. He beckons us forward to press our thumbs into the wet clay, our prints adding to the charm of the finished product. We all want to leave our mark.